![]() ![]() Judge the "step" between the worn and unworn splines. The wheel hub you cannot measure (well, I can't). 2.400 is dangerous!! The hub you can measure. Kurt! The original spline diameter on the hubs is 2.450". what is Max/min allowableĪxel hub splines outer diameter on a 75 mgb and also the matching IDĭo you have this info? or suggest where to look. ![]() I found this once but I can't find it again. Changing the diff is a MUCH larger problem! Hope this helps We do this job a lot without a problem - your shop is simply not used to, or comfortable with, or unskilled in this repair. Stop when the preload (again, you must judge this in 1/4" of rotational freeplay) begins to rise. Turn the nut 1/16 turn by 1/16 turn testing the preload after each rotation. The nut will turn freely (well, sort of,) until the flange returns to its original position, then the torque risesĭramatically. Use your breaker bar to rotate the pinion nut. Rotate this tool and allow it to bottom out on the bottom of the battery box. A two foot flat steel bar is best - drilled to accept two pinion flange bolts, yet allow This is difficult (not impossible) to "feel" with the half shafts and wheels on the car, for if you turn the pinion flange more than 1/4 inch, the resistance to turn includes not only the pinion bearings, but the crown wheel bearings, the wheel bearings, the tires, and the brakes! You must make a tool for holding the pinion stationary. The proper preload (resistance to turn) of the pinion is about 12 lb-in. The tricky part, of course, is just how tight to get the nut on the flange: too tight and the diff won't turn and/or the bearings will fail too loose and the gears will chew up. Then tap off the flange, pry the seal loose, fit a new seal, polish the surface of the flange on which the seal rides, and reassemble. An air impact wrench is perfect for this job I believe the nut is 1 5/16" dia. In the first case, it's necessary to remove the driveshaft, then remove the nut that holds the pinion / driveshaft flange. The second is common to the Salisburyĭiffs and the repair is detailed in my tech book which is on the way to you. These can be corrected at the same time, but the first is far more serious - you could run the diff out of oil - a fatal error. You have two problems: a leaky pinion oil seal and too much slop in the "spider gears" in the differential carrier housing. How can I get a copy of the book? If there is a charge for the information I will call with a credit card #. Have a tech article on this or any thing in your book. does not want to do the job, they told me to find a good use rear end, because with out the crush sleeve its a very nastie job and hard to make it work right!? Do you I need information on resealing my pinion gear.I also have more than 1/4" of free play. I have just found you and your web site, It is great! If tightening the pinion nut does not change the whine, then suffer it until you find another diff! Instructions for replacing the washers behind the diff and pinion wheels is in my techbook and on the webpage (I believe). Tighten up the nut by 1/12 or 1/6 of a turn and judge the resistance to turn. Let this long bar carry through and come to rest on the bottom of the battery box. Place a socket on the pinion nut and some type of long bar, bolted to the diff flange. It is nearly impossible to judge the resistance to turn because as soon as you begin to rotate the pinion, the crown wheel begins to turn, too. The pinion can become loose - it should have some resistance to turn - a preload of about 12 lb-ft. Two of these involve you: Tightening the pinion bearing, and replacing the washers behind the spider gears. There are only several easy repairs you can make to a differential - after that, it's best to replace the entire diff unit. I know this information arrives later than you had hoped. How hard is it to replace the pinion bearings? Is there a good source of instructions for this? I can feel pinion bearing slop in the rear flange. If I let off the throttle I get no noise until it starts to decel. I get a whine when I accelerate that increase in pitch from 35 to 40 MPH I get a different whine when I decelerate. I am experiencing what I think is pinion bearing noise in my 77B. You can also use the search bar below to find answers to technical questions! Category
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